Wardrobe Crisis

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Ep 224, Is Fashion Ready for Ecocide Law?

If you listened to our previous interview with Jem Bendell and wondered, "What on Earth do I do now?" and you weren't up for moving to Bali and getting collapse ready by starting a self-sufficient permaculture farm...we've got you!

This week's Episode is about practical action being taken right now to protect the rights of Nature.

Clare is sitting down with two can-do women, fashion designer Lucy Tammam and Stop Ecocide International's Jojo Mehta to decode one of the topics of the moment, ecocide law.

You might have noticed this idea gaining momentum. Ecocide refers to the mass damage and destruction of ecosystems – severe harm to nature which is widespread or long-term. The idea is to criminalise it. And it's happening! It's become national law in several countries with many more discussing it. In March 2024, the EU passed a law that criminalises actions 'comparable to ecocide' - a revolutionary legal development; the first law of its kind to be adopted by a political entity with substantial global influence. In September, Vanuatu, Fiji and Samoa submitted a proposal to the International Criminal Court for recognition of ecocide as a crime.

What does all this mean for fashion? Listen to find out!

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NOTES & LINKS

STOP ECOCIDE INTERNATIONAL was co-founded in 2017 by pioneering barrister, the late Polly Higgins (1968-2019) and current CEO Jojo Mehta.

They say: “While most human interaction with the environment creates some level of impact, ecocide refers only to the very worst harms, usually on a major industrial scale or impacting a huge area. Criminalisation of ecocide creates enforceable accountability for these key decision-makers, so that where there is a threat of severe and either widespread or long-term damage, the dangers will be better researched and taken very seriously. Appropriate safety protocols will be employed or alternative approaches developed in order to protect nature, climate and people, and in order to avoid criminal liability.

“Ecocide laws are now being proposed and progressed in domestic and regional parliaments around the world, largely based on (or strongly influenced by) the Independent Expert Panel definition convened by our Foundation.  Exactly how these laws proceed and are adopted varies from one jurisdiction to another, but the legal direction of travel is clear.”

For more info, www.stopecocide.earth

In September 2024, Vanuatu, Fiji and Samoa petitioned the International Criminal Court to formally recognise ecocide as a crime. Read more via Guardian here

The EU “recently passed a law that criminalises actions “comparable to ecocide”. It’s a revolutionary legal development – the first law of its kind to be adopted by a political entity with substantial global influence.” Will it work? More here.

WHAT DOES ALL THIS HAVE TO DO WITH FASHION? “Well, everything, because recognising ecocide will make companies from all sectors change their behaviour to better take into account the environment. We know that the fashion industry is a massive polluter. It is the third sector that consumes the most water in the world. It emits every year 1.2 billion tonnes of greenhouse gas, about 10% of the world’s emissions. 500 000 tonnes of microplastics are thrown in the ocean each year due to the production of clothes. And as usual, what endangers the environment also endangers humans: 60 million women textile workers worldwide are exposed to hazardous and toxic chemicals, including pesticides, on a daily basis.  In Bangladesh, rivers are turning black due to the sludge and sewage produced by textile dyeing and processing factories. In Chile, 39,000 tonnes of clothing waste are being stocked in the Atacama desert.

Recognising ecocide and all environmental crimes in law will enable us to prevent these crimes before they happen. It will force companies to change their behaviour, in order not to face criminal sanctions.” Via Fashion Revolution

Lucy Tammam, “One Dress” London Fashion Week, Spring 25

ABOUT TAMMAM Tammam is a sustainable couture designer with an atelier in Bloomsbury, London. Designer Lucy is a St Martins graduate, long focused on sustainable practices and working with artisans to revive traditional craftsmanship. Lucy works with embroiders in both in India and the UK.

Follow Tammam on Instagram here.

Lucy’s ONE DRESS project began in 2016 when, in lieu of creating wasteful seasonal collections, Lucy (at the time co-curating an exhibition for Feminism in London (FiL)) decided to throw her energies at making one, exquisite gown, its skirt hand-embroidered with words representing womanhood - chosen by and dedicated to anyone. She got the Arts Council England involved, did a couple of crowdfunders, and the end result toured the world.

“In reality one dress can mean a lot to a lot of people,” said Lucy. “The people who grow and gather the fibre, spin the yarn, weave the fabric, design the style, cut and stitch the finished dress. Then the embellishment, a beautifully embroidered dress can take months to finish - this can give purpose and employment as well as spread a message through the symbolism of its design. This is why a dress is an artwork, not just something to be worn once or twice then discarded for land-fill. I create dresses that are heirlooms to be worn with love, treasured, fixed, altered, stored, displayed, kept forever.”

For the latest incarnation, as shown at LFW Spring 25, Lucy came up with One Dress: PLANET is a unique piece of textile art supporting the work of Stop Ecocide International. “For this dress, small embroideries of diverse plant species, from different ecosystems and environments, endangered because of human destruction, can be purchased and added to the evolving garment. These hand-stitched embroideries are made by artisans who are credited alongside the owner on the One Dress register.” Read the rest here.

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