If you've listened to this Episode on iTunes already (don't forget to subscribe - it's free), welcome to the SHOW NOTES. If you haven't heard it yet, scroll down to LISTEN.
We've just created a Patreon page. Love the series? You can help Clare keep making it by pledging as little as $1 a month towards our running costs. Click here!
How great is our MUSIC? It's by our friend Montaigne, who sang a special acoustic version of "Because I love You" just for us. It's from her album Glorious Heights.
EPISODE 25 FEATURES EVA GALAMBOS
London has Browns and Dover St Market, Milan has 10 Corso Como, New York has Jeffrey, and Paris had Collette. In Australia, the multi-brand designer fashion stores to know are Melbourne’s Marais and in Sydney, Parlour X.
This Episode is about independent high fashion retail, how it works and what it does, what’s happening with bricks and mortar stores, and why we need them. You’re going to meet the brilliant buyer, style setter and retailer Eva Galambos, who is Parlour X’s founder.
Eva is a working mum of two beautiful pint-sized fashionistas, she’s art obsessed, she studied art history, and collects paintings, but her other big love is retail - she’s been at it for 20 years. She’s an expert on the business of fashion, and the changing landscape of retail.
It’s her job to partner with the brands she believes in to present their collections in store, and to choose the right stuff to stay ahead in a game that’s been turned upside down in recent years by the growth of online and the rise of the flagship, where more brands are becoming vertical operations.
We talk about who decides what’s on trend, the purpose of fashion shows, and what happens on a buying appointment and in the Paris showrooms. We cover the importance of longevity and timeless design, what the term ‘investment piece’ really means, the pressures and opportunities of online retailing. And we talk about clothes because we both love them!
We also ask, what does luxury means today. How has oversupply and the oxymoronic concept of ‘masstige’ affected the way we view luxury fashion?
Eva says, “Luxury always meant something that you held onto forever, because of the quality, craftsmanship and the price tag. And because it was rare.” Are we losing sight of that?
This Episode is a must for anyone studying fashion, working in the business or just trying to figure out how it all works.
WHAT WE TALK ABOUT...
STELLA MCCARTNEY is fashion's favourite vegan. Eva's been selling her brand since forever.
THE GUCCI EFFECT is being felt at all ends of the fashion spectrum with designers scrambling to emulate the brand's success, some rather too closely copying its aesthetics. Ooops. Forever 21. Separated at birth? And now in court.
But it works both ways! Did someone in Alessandro Michelle's team knock off this T-shirt?
Gucci also led the charge in its anti-sale policy.
JACQUEMUS is the avant-garde French label designed by Simon Jacquemus, who launched his first collection at just 19. Known for his sculptural shapes, overblown silhouette and use of experimental detailing such as asymmetric hems and extravagant ruffles, these pieces are completely timeless.
Jacquemus Spring '17
Jacquemus Spring '18
The Dana Thomas book Clare mentions is, Deluxe, How Luxury Lost its Lustre. Here's the review from the NYT.
Celine bags are obviously very lovely indeed. How do we all feel about the departure of Phoebe Philo?
Celine 'Cabas' bag
Colette in Paris was an iconic fashion destination. Founded by Colette Rousseaux, the store on Rue Saint-Honoré had been at the centre of fashion since it opened its doors in March 1997.People were rightly gutted when it closed in December.
EVA'S STYLE...
At home with daughter Paloma, photographed for Marie Claire magazine
In Valentino
THANK YOU FOR JOINING THE WARDROBE CRISIS CONVERSATION. WE'LL HAVE A NEW EPISODE FOR YOU EVERY WEDNESDAY. CAN YOU HELP US SPREAD THE WORD? WE'D LOVE YOU TO TELL YOUR FRIENDS & LEAVE A REVIEW IN iTUNES.
Until next time,
Clare x