On February 24th, Russia invaded Ukraine. The news headlines filled with terrifying stories of missile strikes on residential areas, hitting apartment buildings and killing civilians; of nuclear power plants being attacked more than one million people fleeing country. What has fashion to do with all this?
The morning that Russian President Vladimir Putin declared war, was also the first day of Milan Fashion Week. And as the violence continued, so too did the fashion shows, next in Paris.
Fashion’s Instagram feeds were unsettling mix of commentary on Kim Kardashian’s outfits and blue-and-yellow street style looks inspired by the Ukrainian flag. Some brands used their platforms to take a stand for peace. But solidarity only goes so far. Saying you care about something is not the same as doing something about it, so beyond a social media post, how can an industry like fashion contribute meaningfully?
How should fashion respond to war? What is our moral obligation? Should brands the retailers impose their own sanctions on Russia and halt business there? What support do Ukrainian designers need? Is it okay not to speak out? And when does this become simply, as guest today puts it, common sense, or an expression of our common humanity.
In this week’s Episode, Clare sits down with Venya Brykalin, fashion director of Vogue Ukraine to ask these questions and more.
DONATE Real ways you can help Ukraine as a foreigner
NOTES
FASHION MONTH TIMING The Autumn 2022 ready-to-wear shows began in Milan on February 24, with Paris beginning on February 28th. In Milan, the NYT’s Vanessa Friedman reported on the feelings of unease backstage at Moschino. “The fashion bubble can feel discombobulating at the best of times. When a global confrontation occurs, however, the contrast between life inside and life outside is particularly jarring. On the one hand: the stuff of fantasy and frippery; on the other, feeds and headlines filled with threat and fear. It can seem almost impossible to reconcile. Yet fashion,” she said, “like other expressions of humanity, can be a tool for getting through even the worst of times; can be used to feel stronger, safer, more confident, more efficient, more able to deal with the day.” Read the rest here.
ARMANI chose to stage his Milan show in silence “a sign of respect towards the people involved in the unfolding tragedy in Ukraine”. Read more here.
In Paris, BALENCIAGA used its runway to make a statement. “Guests arriving at the giant exhibition hall on the fringes of Paris discovered oversized T-shirts the colors of the Ukrainian flag on every seat, and a note card from Demna, whose family fled the civil war in Georgia in 1993. ‘And I became a forever refugee,’ he declared. Current headlines ‘triggered the pain’ of that past trauma, making fashion week seem such an ‘absurdity’ that he seriously considered calling the show off.'“ Via WWD, read the rest here.
The LVMH Prize has pledged support to its three former semi-finalists from the Ukraine - Anna October, Julie Paskal and Anton Belinskiy.
And model Gigi Hadid is donating her Fashion Month profits to organisations supporting Ukraine “as well as continuing to support those experiencing the same in Palestine.” She posted on IG: “Our eyes and hearts must be open to all human injustice. May we all see each other as brothers and sisters, beyond politics, beyond race, beyond religion. At the the end of the day, innocent lives pay for war- not leaders.”
Nevertheless, fashion has been accused of being tone deaf to the crisis, with many brands taking too long to respond. Also, SOLIDARITY only goes so far. “Pressure is growing for designers to use their catwalk platform to show solidarity with Ukraine, and for luxury brands to cut off their Russian revenue streams,” reported Guardian UK on March 3.
Read Venya’s interview with Chloe Street at the Evening Standard here.
Paris Fashion Week, via Style du
Dress by Vita Kin
VITA KIN is a Kyiv-based brand known for its modern boho dresses. They say: “first collections were inspired by our own Ukrainian heritage and its famed embroidery methods and patterns. As our brand evolved, we began to study and implement other artisanal techniques developed and preserved through the ages by cultures from around the world… Each Vita Kin piece is made with care in our own workshop in Kyiv.”
SLEEPER’s feather-trimmed party pyjamas are too glamorous to keep to yourself.
ANNA OCTOBER is an ethical womenswear brand founded in Odessa in 2010. They say: “Inspired by women’s versatility, its designer and creative director Anna retranslates excitement and joy of being a woman in her every piece … All collections are created at carefully selected Ukrainian manufactories using deadstock and ethical materials. Anna October maintains its authentic roots, by handcrafting a significant part of the items, using old local techniques. Designing collections Anna follows no trends, as her main inspiration is the way she feels and perceives feminine beauty and visual aesthetics.”
ANTON BELINSKIY is an LVMH Prize finalist who studied at FIT. “Among his sources of inspiration are sportswear, streetwear and Ukrainian cultural traditions carefully explored by Belinskiy during his trips to the country's regions.” Via Not Just A Label. More here.
PASKAL Finalist of the first LVMH prize edition, architecture graduate Julie Paskal launched her eponymous brand PASKAL in 2013. Since then she’s seen her work was featured in the windows of Colette Paris and garnered over 50 stoсkists globally.
1 GRANARY is an online platform, a magazine, for fashion graduates founded by Olya Kuryshchuk, a Ukrainian who studied fashion at Central Saint Martins. On March 1, they published an open letter to the fashion industry, Fashion Unites Against War.
Here’s a powerful quote from it:
“FASHION HAS POWER. FASHION IS A TRILLION-DOLLAR INDUSTRY WITH GIGANTIC CULTURAL, ECONOMIC, AND EVEN POLITICAL INFLUENCE. IN TIMES OF CRISIS, IT’S EASY TO DISMISS THAT POWER, TO CALL IT SUPERFLUOUS, FRIVOLOUS, TONE-DEAF, HYPOCRITE, OR NON-ESSENTIAL. BUT OUR SUPPLY CHAINS CONNECT COUNTRIES ACROSS THE GLOBE, OUR MEDIA REACH MASSES OF FOLLOWERS EVERYWHERE, OUR SHARED LANGUAGE OF CREATIVITY IS UNIVERSAL. WE ARE AN INDUSTRY BURSTING WITH TALENT, SKILLS, NETWORKS, AND CONNECTIONS. THOSE TOOLS CAN ALWAYS IMPROVE THE LIVES OF PEOPLE AROUND US – WHETHER IT’S ON A LARGE SCALE OR AN INTIMATE ONE. WHEREVER YOU ARE TODAY, DON’T TURN YOUR BACK, DON’T CLOSE YOUR EYES.”
Read the rest here.
SANCTIONS
Hermès and Chanel were the first large scale luxury fashion businesses to terminate their activities in Russia, reports Showstudio. LVMH, Kering and Richemont have also closed their Russian stores, joining the likes of Burberry and H&M in turning away from Russia, reports Eco Textiles News.
“Whether brands keep doing business in Russia is increasingly being decided by logistical factors rather than moral commitments. Western sanctions against Russia have impacted international shipments, payment systems and travel, meaning that even though luxury goods are exempt for now, many brands are unable to process payments or fulfil orders.” Via BoF, read the rest here.
Here’s a list, compiled by a Yale professor, of companies still doing business in Russia at the time of writing.