Ten years ago, the devastating Rana Plaza collapse in Dhaka proved just how deadly the business of making clothes could be for marginalised garment workers. In countries like Bangladesh where cheap clothing is produced at high volume, and wages are kept low, it’s these workers - mostly young women - who face the greatest exploitation and vulnerability.
As a result, a new consumer movement was born in the form of Fashion Revolution. New agreements, like what’s now known as the International Accord and Health and Safety in the Textile and Garment Industry, were developed. Supply chain transparency became a buzz phrase. We’d entered a new era of scrutiny, spotlighting working conditions, poverty wages and brands that failed to do the right thing. So far so good, but today the power imbalances persist between brands and suppliers that result in unfair purchasing practices persist, the right to unionise is by no means unversally upheld and almost no big brands pay a living wage.
Events commemorating the disaster’s anniversary went hard on the hashtag, #ranaplazaneveragain - but how much has really changed since 2013? Are factories everywhere safer? How about fairer? To what extent has fashion production really become more ethical?
Further listening? Try Ep 164 on Good Clothes, Fair Pay, and our important interview with Kalpona Akter from Series 1, and this enlightening discussion between ReMake’s Ayesha Barenblat and Nazma Akter from Series 5. Oh, and here’s Episode 160 with Moin Roberts-Islam.
FEATURING …
On the podcast, you’re going to hear from three people who spend their days advocating for a better deal for garment workers:
TAMAZER AMED is ActionAid Bangladesh’s lead for Women’s Rights & Gender Equity. Based in Dhaka, has over 10 years’ experience in development including stints at the UN Office for the Coordination of Humanitarian Affairs (UN OCHA) and USAID/Bangladesh’s Program Office.
SARAH KNOP is Baptist World Aid Australia’s Advocacy Manager. She began her career as a buyer working for brands including Cotton On, and before moving to the NGO sector, worked as a product manager for Salvo’s Stores. Sarah co-wrote this year’s special edition of the Ethical Fashion Report, with Bonnie Graham.
NAYEEM EMRAN is Oxfam Australia’s Economic Justice Strategic Lead. Having worked for the International Finance Corporation and International Labour Organization, Nayeem’s work is wide-ranging, incorporating policy reform, social and environmental compliance, gender empowerment and advocacy on workers’ rights.
NOTES
RMG means ready-made-garment.
BAPTIST WORLD AID is an international NGO, known in fashion for publishing annual Ethical Fashion reports. Published in April 2023, their SPECIAL EDITON ETHICAL FASHION REPORT: WHAT’S CHANGED IN 10 YEARS? looks at progress since the disaster that was supposed to change everything. The report critiqued 120 companies representing almost 600 brands, with the special edition tracking performance and changes from 25 companies assessed from 2013 to 2022.
They say: “Assessing the data we have collected over the last ten years, we were inspired to project how the industry as a whole is likely to progress over the next decade, if the pace of the 25 companies we assessed between 2013 and 2022 continues.”
KEY POINTS - LIVING WAGES. At the current pace of change, it will take Australia's fashion industry: 75 years for all companies to pay a living wage at a minimum of 1 factory each.
Read the summary here. Download the report in full here.
Read Sarah’s comments to Sydney Morning Herald here.
KEY POINTS - TRANSPARENCY “One of the areas of largest improvement is policy creation. Robust policies reinforce—theoretically at least—the standards of behaviour that suppliers adhere to, setting a baseline for measuring the effectiveness of efforts to improve supply chain practice. Amongst companies assessed in both 2013 and 2022, 84% now have a Code of Conduct aligned to international best practice standards on workers’ rights such as the elimination of child labour, freedom of association, and the right to collective bargaining—an improvement from just 28% of these companies in 2013. But progress is slower when it comes to deeper tiers of the supply chain. Only 36% of these same companies applied their Code of Conduct beyond Final Stage suppliers in 2022, improving marginally from 24% in 2013.” Responsible Purchasing Practices are also increasing.
KEY POINTS - FREEDOM OF ASSOCIATION Says the report: “Amongst companies assessed in both 2013 and 2022, 84% now have a Code of Conduct aligned to international best practice standards on workers’ rights such as the elimination of child labour, freedom of association, and the right to collective bargaining—an improvement from just 28% of these companies in 2013. But progress is slower when it comes to deeper tiers of the supply chain.” Also, different countries have different approaches to unionisation, for example, independent unions are not permitted under Chinese law. Here’s a useful explainer by Common Objective on collective bargaining, the right to unionise and issues in China, Vietnam, Cambodia as well as Bangladesh. Or read this case study on Uganda and check out what IndustriALL has to say about the garment sector in general here.
ACTION AID describes itself “a global federation working for a world free from poverty and injustice”. Founded in 1972, they are head-quartered in South Africa and have hubs in Asia, the US and Europe. Action Aid came to Bangladesh in the 1980s. They say: “Our work falls into four broad areas: women, politics and economics, land and climate, and emergencies. We have a particular focus on women’s rights; it’s a thread that runs through all our work.” Read about their WORKERS’ CAFES here
LEED stands for Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design. Discover here.
Rana Plaza in April 2013
FACTORY SAFETY As Nayeem explains, Bangladesh’s particular topography was a factor the enormity of the Rana Plaza disaster - buildings not fit for purpose, with illegal vertical extensions, built on swampy reclaimed land. Investigators found that “the ‘extremely poor quality’ construction materials and the massive, vibrating equipment” made things worse. Read more on Guardian here.
The International Accord on Health and Safety in the Textile and Garment Industry, which covers Bangladesh, was first signed in May 2013. It is a legally binding agreement between clothing brands and global unions that created an inspection and remediation program to mitigate fire, building, electrical, and boiler safety risks for factory workers. The program also includes a complaints mechanism for workers to file grievances about health and safety concerns and violations of their right to organize. In December 2022, the Accord announced its expansion to cover garment and textile factories in Pakistan … As of April 11, 2023, 195 brands are part of the Accord in Bangladesh, and 45 brands are part of the Accord in Pakistan. Many other brands, mostly from the US, have yet to join.” Via Human Rights Watch, more here.
Image via ReMake
This explainer on Fashion United is a great read.
WHICH BRANDS? At the time of writing those who have not signed the Accord include Amazon, Levi’s and Target. Follow ReMake’s brand tracker to see progress.
CONSUMER PRESSURE & SUSTAINABILITY LITERACY Consumers are much more likely today to expect brands to do the right thing, plus there’s much more widespread knowledge that they haven’t always done so in the past. The popularity of public-facing fashion industry panel discussions and the growth in media coverage of sustainability, plus pressure from NGOs are all factors.
FASHION REVOLUTION Fashion Revolution was founded by Carry Somers and Orsola de Castro in the wake of the Rana Plaza disaster in 2013. It has grown to become the world’s largest fashion activism movement, mobilising citizens, brands and policymakers through research, education and advocacy. More here.
WHAT SHE MAKES In 2017, Oxfam Australia report released a report, called What She Makes, looking at poverty wages in the garment sectors of Bangladesh, Vietnam, Cambodia and Indonesia. It pointed out that while the region has experienced strong economic growth in recent decades, the poorest 70% of people in Asia have seen their income share fall. Listen to Episode 23 for the deep-dive.
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Find Clare on Instagram @mrspress & Twitter @mrspress