COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK SPECIAL!
In the latest of our names-to-watch from CPHFW, Clare sits down with Finnish menswear designer Rolf Ektroth.
Last season, his hand-knits, made with Finnish yarn manufacturer Novita, were made available as pattern and yarn kits, so that home knitters could recreate his runway pieces. He loves macramé and hand embroidery, yet his collections have a modern street wear vibe that feels very polished.
Perhaps it's because he's not actually new name - Rolf Ekroth has been celebrated before, with glowing reviews in magazines and shows at Pitti Uomo before the pandemic. His label has had its ups and downs, he lost his backers at one point, but he kept at it.
This is conversation about a career as a progression and taking the long view. It's about perseverance, figuring out what really matters to you and how we are all the sum of our experiences.
ABOUT ROLF After studying fashion (both BA and MA) at Aalto University in Helsinki, Rolf Elkroth was awarded Young Designer of the Year in Finland in 2015 and was a finalist at the Hyères Festival in 2016. In 2020, he launched his eponymous brand to pay tribute to Finnish heritage and traditional know-how, which he rethinks and modernises. His practice is rooted in an Arts and Crafts philosophy and the cross-pollination of traditional crafts and fine arts expression. More here.
For AW’24: ‘The design process transported Ekroth back to his grandmother’s house in North Karelia, where he spent many freezing cold and dark winters. The collection’s colour palette reflects the familiar, muted tones that dominated Finnish homes in the ’80s. Although Ekroth draws from nostalgia, a recurring theme in his collections, the contemporary, oversized silhouettes and clean cuts ensure the collection remains modern and relevant. “I didn’t want to just romanticise and get stuck in a bygone era, but to bring it to this day,” he says.” ‘ Read the rest on Vogue Scandinavia
AW 24 - these checkered pants were painstakingly patchworked from deadstock Puma jerseys.
Rolf Ektorth AW 24 - granny approved!
FINLAND According to VisitFinland.com, “Finland is a Nordic welfare state that aims to be carbon neutral by 2035. It's also the happiest country in the world. Why? Here’s one (American) writer’s take:
“I’d gotten incredulous questions from more than a few people before coming here. Northern Finland? In January? Really? I, myself, had dubiously seen Finland atop the World Happiness Report since 2018—it was once again named #1 in March 2024—and wondered how a country known for pickled herring and the wild vacillations between light and darkness could really be the happiest on earth. That couldn’t possibly be good for your circadian rhythms, right?” Read the rest here.
Burt look, there’s also dark goth scene. Yes, Finnish DEATH METAL - it’s a thing.
HELSINKI is the capital city. Listen to Ep 51 with EVELYN MORA who made Helsinki Fashion Week the first one to prioritise sustainability back in 2018, here.
TIMO RISSANEN was on Episode 2 - listen here. How time flies!
ESTONIA is Finland’s closest fashion manufacturing hub. “We prioritise local production as much as possible. Being based in Helsinki, Finland, our closest manufacturing hub is in Tallinn, Estonia, with some work done in other Baltic countries. Estonia is our primary production location due to its proximity and efficiency. While there are a few companies in Finland with the necessary machinery, they often prioritise larger orders, making it challenging for us with our smaller volumes.” Read the rest on Le New Black
WEAVING FRIENDSHIP Normal and ALPHA patterns are the two most popular friendship bracelet pattern types. The unique feature of alpha patterns is their horizontal knot structure. Alpha bracelets are created in a motion similar to weaving. Interchangeable leading strings make rows of forward knots made onto unseen base strings followed by rows of backward knots onto those same base strings. Making knots of different colors on different base strings is what creates the design.
KNITTING “Knitters can not be classified into a stereotypical bespectacled granny as Helsinki sees knitters from all backgrounds. Hundreds of patterns in a positively baffling variety of colours reflect the wide variety of people who partake in this pastime. Finnish magazines, a range of blogs, and public discourse underline the popularity of knitting in Helsinki.” Via MyHelsinki.fi
NOVITA is the largest manufacturer of craft yarns in the Nordic countries. knitting yarns in Finland for over 90 years. Operating out of their mill in Kouvola, Finland, Novita produces one million kilograms per year-or 10 million balls of Finnish Wool Yarn. Novita.com
PITTI UOMO is the world's leading platform for men's clothing and accessory collections. Held in Florence twice a year. More here.
POKER BOOM “With the emergence of Planet Poker online, poker became accessible to everyone who wanted to play it. Before the advent of the internet, players had to go to brick-and-mortar casinos to try their luck in this game. If people have only several land-based casinos in the country, as they do, say, in Finland, this could be inconvenient. Not everyone was so enthusiastic about poker as to fly several hours to Helsinki Casino in order to see if they could have a Royal Flush or Full House in their hands. When, with the internet, some players managed to win $2,500,000 from their homes, the public’s attitude to poker drastically changed. People realized that poker was an entertaining pastime that could make them rich….As people who consider gambling their civic duty, Finns took to online poker with enthusiasm.” More here.
So we can blame the internet for the 2000s poker boom that peaked in 2006, but as Rolf says, at its height, there were also polka shows on TV. This BBC article is a fascinating read. Some random accountant called Chris won $2.5 million at the World Series of Poker (WSOP) in 2003, while the Hollywood movie Rounders starring Edward Norton and Matt Damon sent everyone poker mad. Who knew?
THANK YOU FOR LISTENING. Please do get in touch if you like the show, and help us continue to make it by growing our audience. Sharing it on social media, or just with your friends, rating, reviewing or simply recommending it, makes a huge difference.
Find Clare on Instagram @mrspress