#underconsumptioncore is a thing! For this episode, we’re in London visiting British journalist Tiffanie Darke to talk about her viral wardrobe challenge, Rule of Five.
She’s also got a new book coming out in the US. What to Wear and Why, Your Guilt-Free Guide to Sustainable Fashion promises to get you "rethinking what clothes we buy, wear, and toss out, knowing that we can have a positive environmental impact while still looking good and dressing well”.
It was during the pandemic, when Tiffanie was working at Harrod's, as the editor of that famed luxury department store's magazine, when she had a revelation. Mindless shopping felt meaningless.
Then she read a shocking report by the Hot or Cool Institute - Unfit, Unfashionable, Unfair revealed that if we're serious about climate action, those of us in the global north/rich countries are going to have to have to drastically reduce our consumption. Of everything! So how much new fashion is sustainable if we want to keep global warming under 1.5 degrees? Buying just five new garments a year. Yikes!
This is the story of how one woman set out to do that, and catalysed a movement along the way. Also up for discussion, who’s to blame for the mess we find ourselves in? Could it be Gen X, those formerly hedonistic Cool Britannia types? After all, they were the first fast fashion fans…
Discover the book here.
RULE OF 5
“Imagine if someone told you you could only buy 5 things for your wardrobe each year. Only 5 things. Sit with that for a second. How many have you bought already this year - can you even remember them all? Were they worth it? How many times have you worn each since?” Here begins Tiffanie’s challenge… Join in here.
UNFIT, UNFAIR, UNFASHIONABLE “Current trends in fashion consumption, in particular fast fashion, cannot be maintained if we aim to achieve a fair and just transition to climate neutrality (i.e., net zero greenhouse gas emissions). Mounting scientific evidence reveals the vast extent of negative environmental and social impacts associated with fashion consumption, as well as the differing responsibilities of consumers in high- and low-income countries and groups. This report contributes to filling the knowledge gap that arises from prevailing climate scenarios related to fashion. These scenarios tend to underplay the potential contributions of lifestyle changes to mitigating greenhouse gas emissions and instead focus entirely or mainly on developing new technologies and on changes in production. The report also assesses and exposes misconceptions around the climate impacts of practices that are often considered effective solutions for reducing the carbon footprint of fashion. Analysis of practices such as clothing donations and exports of second-hand clothing reveals environmental impacts that are not often considered but that are potentially net negative. Read the report here.
Listen to Episode 191 with Rachel Arthur here.
You don't have to make all five pieces boring basics... Tiffanie bought these gold cargo pants.
MORE WARDROBE CHALLENGES Listen to Episode 201 with Jenna Flood here.
Read BRIDGET DELANEY’S column on Gen X here.
AGORA is the sustainable boutique Tiffanie co-runs with Daniela Agnelli in a fancy hotel called Six Senses Ibiza - 40% of what they stock is by local designers.
“It's probably the most famous store in the world, with its gargantuan building and iconic green and gold bags, but how much do you really know about HARRODS?” More via The Londonist.
CLAP FOR CARERS was a “very unBritish ritual that united the nation” during covid. More Via Guardian.
MOTHER OF PEARL is a lovely London-based sustainable womenswear brand. Founder Amy Powney was on Episode 71.
Back in 2019, reliably barometer of cool The Atlantic reported on how “Mom jeans, profoundly uncool and then suddenly very cool, got their revenge” - having been ”almost casualties of reductive stereotypes about motherhood”. A few years later they were firmly out again. But wait! According to the New Yorker, MOM JEANS are actually still with us.
FANFARE imbued new life into Tiffanie’s old jeans with custom embroidery. https://fanfarelabel.com
When ANDREA CHEONG’s rabbit ate her Prada dress, as told The Times, she took it to The Seam. (How the other half live). We reckon ORSOLA’S fab REPAIR IDEAS are more relatable - check then out IG here. BUT WHAT IF YOU SUCK AT D.I.Y.? Try your local high street, while a plethora of circular fashion apps exist these days to help you outsource. Try SAVE YOUR WARDROBE or SOJO.
HOW IS DEPOP CHANGING THINGS? “Gen Z are changing fashion consumption with their approaches to self-expression and identity, and by redefining the way newness is understood and appreciated. This is a generation leading change at global scale – they are increasingly influencing the consumption behaviours of older generations, and are rapidly gaining spending power,” says Peter Semple, Chief Brand Officer at Depop. “In order for fashion businesses to succeed with current and future consumers, they must believe in and serve the interests of these audiences. Fluidity, constant evolution and clear values are the means to be a futureproof brand – and we use those principles to guide the development of our social, purposeful, community-driven fashion marketplace.”
FAST BEAUTY “The rise of fast beauty is affecting ecosystems worldwide, causing life-long negative impacts. It’s a bigger issue than most people realize.” Via ourgoodbrands.com Tiffanie reckons social media filters are partly to blame.
COOL BRITANNIA & HEDONISM Tiffanie talks about the “life is for living, it’s now” view of the world, as compared to the millennial guilt and Gen Z apathy in the face of the shitshow we’ve left them with…
“We were too busy having a good time to worry about feminism, authenticity and ideology. But at least the jokes were good.” - Zoe Williams, via Guardian UK.
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Find Clare on Instagram @mrspress