This week's compelling interview is with manufacturer Shafiq Hassan, of the Echotex manufacturing facility in Gazipur, Bangladesh. Clare interviewed Shafiq in London, in September 2024, a little over month after peaceful students protests in Bangladesh toppled ex-Prime Minister Sheikh Hasina, then presiding over an increasingly corrupt and authoritarian regime.
So what's next?
“Key moments in our lives are charted by the textiles we bring close to our bodies," write curators Rebecca Evans the Leigh Robb in the catalogue to a major new exhibition at the Art Gallery of South Australia, RADICAL TEXTILES.
New York, London, Milan, Paris? So last season! It's time to spotlight less discussed design centres. This time, Dundee, Scotland, which is home the two emerging menswear designers you're about to meet - both recent graduates from the Jimmy Choo Academy…
It's not every day you get to sit down with a proper fashion world icon and pick his brains for free! Dear listeners, you're in for a treat this week, as Clare meets the one and only Jimmy Choo. This magic name in shoe design is now professor - he runs his own fashion school, the Jimmy Choo Academy in London's Mayfair…
You might have noticed this idea gaining momentum. Ecocide refers to the mass damage and destruction of ecosystems – severe harm to nature which is widespread or long-term. The idea is to criminalise it. And it's happening! It's become national law in several countries with many more discussing it. In March, the EU passed a law that criminalises actions 'comparable to ecocide' - a revolutionary legal development; the first law of its kind to be adopted by a political entity with substantial global influence. In September, Vanuatu, Fiji and Samoa submitted a proposal to the International Criminal Court for recognition of ecocide as a crime.
What does all this mean for fashion? Listen to find out!
Bet you can think of a thousand places where career progress is affected by your postcode, where you went to school and what your parents did. And lurking behind all that: race, gender, sexuality, difference, not to mention how much cash you've got...It's time for a power shift.
Meet Rahemur Rahman, a British-Bengali artist, educator and designer who is determined to change the system, not simply tinker round the edges of representation.
We all know clothes have meaning, beyond just looking nice. We’ve often talked on this podcast about the importance of how they are made. This week, we’re considering how fashion’s meaning stretches beyond supply chains and our wardrobes, to shape our culture and the way we see ourselves collectively. How does fashion see itself when it comes to race and privilege? How about the male gaze?
We sit down with Caryn Franklin, journalist, style icon, fashion citizen (not consumer, please!), one-time presenter of The Clothes Show and all-time national treasure. These days her work centres on education and activism - she’s a visiting professor of diverse selfhood at Kingston School of Art, in London, and gained her MSc in applied psychology specialising in selfhood, objectification, inclusivity and gender bias.
Partly, this interview is a personal one about a life in clothes but it’s also a provocation: How can we use fashion as a vehicle for positive self-esteem, rather than allowing it to make too many of us feel small, too much of the time?
All up, rollocking good chat with Caryn Franklin, MBE. Enjoy!
ABOUT
CARYN FRANKLIN started her work life as a fashion editor at i-D MAGAZINE under the aegis of publisher/ art director Terry Jones. She started as a presenter on The Clothes Show in 1986 and stayed for 12 years, helping put London on the map as a hub of emerging talent while she was at it.
In 2013 she collected an MBE for services to Positive Body Image and Diversity in Fashion.
Her latest book is in audio format, co-written with Professor Keon West. Buy SKEWED, DE-CODING MEDIA BIAS, How Bias Distorts Our View of Other People and How to Make it Stop on Audible.
Clare mentions a Vin + Omi show at LFW. Listen to Episode 168 with the British fashion design duo.
THE CLOTHES SHOW From 1986 to 1998, Caryn was a presenter on the iconic British telly programme, beaming into the homes of millions at 5pm on Sunday evenings. As she tells Clare, she usually dressed herself, and often took the bus or train to shoot already dressed in the clothes she planned to wear on camera. Why not? Fashion is meant to be worn. (We nearly titled this Ep: The Practical Magic of Clothes Show Lady Caryn Franklin… )
Caryn encourages us to see ourselves as CITIZEN PARTICIPANTS rather than a CONSUMERS.
STYLE A self described “canny shopper – always have been” Caryn says she’s pretty much stopped buying clothes these days, she favoured British designers like GALLIANO, JOHN RICHMOND and VIVIENNE WESTWOOD in her clothes shows, and bought from sample sales where possible. Her signature headwraps were practical as well as fabulous - meant she didn’t have to spend hours in the hair-dressers’ chair. Outifts get re-invented over the years, worn in different ways. Pin them up, turn them around. “I’ve got a thing about proportion,” she says, “I’m gifted with a safety pin!”
““Anything with pockets, that gets extra marks!””
ARCHIVES…
Here are some vintage snaps, via Caryn’s website - FRANKLIN ON FASHION Read the post here.
““I’m a good stylist so I know how to ring the changes with the same stuff.””
The 80S were PURE FASHION FUN with the real runway on the streets and at clubs like The Wag Club, Camden Palace, BeatClub and of course Taboo. LEIGH BOWERY was the perhaps most famous club kid icon of them all, a supremely creative fashion figure who “used his own body as a canvas for self-expression”. More in this fun i-D article from 2015. Watch him take tea with Caryn on The Clothes Show below. For more on Bowery, check out Episodes 172 with Andrew Logan and 13 with Stephen Jones.
In 2009, Caryn, model Erin O’Connor and PR Debra Bourne set up ALL WALKS BEYOND THE CATWALK to challenge the fashion industry's dependence on unachievable and limited body and beauty ideals.
Discover Caryn’s ELLE article, “Is Fashion Racist, Ageist & Fattist?” here
ME TOO Predatory photographer Terry Richardson was enabled for years. Allegations of Richardson’s predatory behavior first surfaced in two 2005 lawsuits. Then this article from 2014, and this New York magazine one from the same year, that exposed his behaviour for all to see. So how come it took top brands until 2017 to stop working with him?
MALE GAZE & POWER IMBALANCE Writes Caryn in Refinery 29: “Systems where a sense of entitlement fuels the knowing exploitation of the many by the few are in part responsible for this messed-up situation. But gender politics and the privilege of masculinity to experience the culture of male predator/female prey as normal, or observe other disparities such as the pay gap as inevitable, are just as culpable … The benefits that boys and men receive from a culture where women are presented as scantily dressed and sexually available to serve the male gaze, while assuring them that all is as it should be, needs to be shot down in flames.” Read in full here.
Listen to Episode 35 with Sara Ziff from the Model Alliance here.
Caryn’s late partner Mandu Saldaan was a writer whose brilliant film about music and race, YOUNG SOUL REBELS, won the Critics Prize at Cannes in 1991. Five months into their relationship, Mandu was diagnosed with multiple sclerosis. Read their story here.
HEALTH PRIVILEGE “There is a need for health professionals to identify social determinants of health (SDOH) and understand the role they play in patients' health,” write researchers Elizabeth Brown abnd Brandi White in their 2020 paper for the journal Health Equity. Further reading.
UNCONSCIOUS BIASES are social stereotypes about certain groups of people that individuals form outside their own conscious awareness.
MICRO AGRESSIONS “An Asian-American student is complimented by a professor for speaking perfect English, but it's actually his first language. A black man notices that a white woman flinches and clutches her bag as she sees him in the elevator she's about to enter, and is painfully reminded of racial stereotypes. A woman speaks up in an important meeting, but she can barely get a word in without being interrupted by her male colleagues… There's a name for what's happening in these situations, when people's biases against marginalized groups reveal themselves in a way that leaves their victims feeling uncomfortable or insulted: microaggressions.” Via Vox. Read the rest here.
Emma Dabiri’s book What White People Can Do Next encourages going beyond ALLYSHIP “to coalition”. She says: “Allyship offers charity whereas coalition is more about solidarity. I draw that link between environmental justice and racial justice because they are two powerful movements, and very necessary and urgent forms of activism today. When you go back to the roots of it all, you see that the same system that is putting our environment under threat is the same system that gave us the racialized hierarchy, the idea of a white race, a Black race and everything in between.”
FACE, Fashion Academics Creating Equality, was formed in the UK to “pursue the accelerated recruitment and progression of Black academics and student creatives as well as the inclusion of Black style and culture to course and module evaluation metrics.” Discover here.
The film mentioned at the end is DECONSTRUCTING KAREN. It explores the Race2Dinner concept led by founders Regina Jackson and Saira Rao. During these dinners, Jackson and Rao facilitate radically honest conversations about race with eight white women at a host’s home. In the documentary, Rao begins one such dinner with a simple, chatter-stopping, smile-freezing buzz-kill of a request.
“So, I want a show of hands of everyone at this table who is racist.” Via Forbes. More here.
Still from Deconstructing Karen
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Find Clare on Instagram @mrspress & Twitter @mrspress
Here are some questions for you: How much is enough? How can creatives incorporate the idea of sufficiency in their output? If you make physical objects, what does it really mean to be sustainable in your practice? And, how can you, as my guest this week, Irish fashion designer, artist and maker Richard Malone, puts it, "do your own thing and stick to it" in the context of fashion's relentless push for newness?
Why does fashion have such a problem in accepting all bodies they way they are, and recognising the beauty in different shapes and sizes? I know, I know, we’ve heard it all before, yet depressingly little changes.
Our guest this week has had enough! Self-described as “that body morphing b*tch”, Michaela Starck is a super-talented London-based Aussie dreamboat who’s beautiful work includes her own glorious self, as well as Paris-worthy, bow-bedecked frillies.
White sands and turquoise waters. Surf breaks. Rugby. Fiji is rightly famous for these things, it’s also an international garment-manufacturing country with a thriving independent design community, mainly focused on the local market and the Fijian diaspora. Meet Ellen Whippy Knight, founder of Fiji Fashion Week.
From Slow Fashion Season to ReMake’s 90-day No New Clothes challenge to the Rule of 5, more of us are looking for ways to circuit-break bad fashion habits. There’s a real movement going on with conscious fashionistas sharing what’s worked for them when it comes to slowing down, buying and wasting less.
Our first guest for 2024 is Jenna Flood, a slow fashion stylist who’s been sharing tips and tricks with her followers around what she calls her Wardrobe Freeze…
In November 2023, in the run up to COP28, Gregory Andrews stationed himself outside Australia's federal parliament, and staged a hunger strike for climate action. His demands included that the government stop permitting the logging of native forests, and end subsidies to fossil fuels companies. He lasted 16 days before ending up in hospital. This is his story.
Living so close to the ocean means connection to Nature is innate; it’s also an important part of Pacific culture. As this week’s guest Flora Vano says. “Nature talks to us, she tells us when something is wrong. These are things you might not get from a book; it’s not about what you’re taught at school. You have to learn it the way we learn it from the islands.”
