Podcast Ep. 72, RONALD VAN DER KEMP - RETHINKING COUTURE

Podcast Ep. 72, RONALD VAN DER KEMP - RETHINKING COUTURE

VOGUE once called him a “high-end scavenger”. Meet Dutch designer Ronald Van Der Kemp - the "sustainable couturier" behind RVDK. Fans include Lady Gaga and Kate Moss, Emma Watson, Lena Dunham and Celine Dion.

While he was still in college, Ronald wrote a thesis on fashion and nature, and designed a collection using vintage materials. He then spent two decades working in luxury fashion for the likes of Barney's, Bill Blass, Guy Laroche and Celine.

Now he's come full circle. Today, brand RVDK - which shows at Paris couture week - focuses on sustainability, and uses reclaimed, vintage and archival fabric. Ronald describes his approach to couture as: “Dressing ageless strong personalities that expect exclusivity, originality and high quality.''

Podcast Ep. 71, SAVING THE PLANET WITH MOTHER OF PEARL'S AMY POWNEY

Podcast Ep. 71, SAVING THE PLANET WITH MOTHER OF PEARL'S AMY POWNEY

Change is possible

Mother of Pearl is a British sustainable luxury womenswear and accessories brand that celebrates individuality and authenticity. The brand was established in 2002 by stylist Maia Norman, then wife of artist Damien Hurst. Amy Powney joined as a paid intern fresh out of fashion school 13 years ago. Nine years later she became creative director.

Today it’s known for its dark florals, satin bows, polka dots, ruffles and outsized faux-pearl trims - you could never accuse Mother of Pearl of being homespun or beige. Amy’s putting the glamour and fun into sustainable style, and it’s winning her accolades. In 2017, Mother of Pearl (along with Palmer Harding) won the British Fashion Council/Vogue Fashion Fund Award.

Podcast Ep. 70, LONDON'S NEW GEN - BETHANY WILLIAMS, MATTHEW NEEDHAM, & PATRICK MCDOWELL

Podcast Ep. 70, LONDON'S NEW GEN - BETHANY WILLIAMS, MATTHEW NEEDHAM, & PATRICK MCDOWELL

Make way, it’s time for something new

Fashion schools everywhere are full of eco warriors and bright, brilliant kids who are determined to do fashion differently. London is the leader. Long known for its fashion creativity, this is the capital that produces the most vibrant student shows and earth-shaking emerging designers. The big international and Paris-based design houses look to London fashion schools like Central St Martins and London College of Fashion for their future stars - but many in this new generation are questioning the validity of the exisiting fashion system, and asking if they want to be part of it at all. Now is a time of reinvention - young designers will reimagine fashion and the way it works. The question is, how?

In this Episode, we’ll hear from 3 young London-based ones to watch: Bethany Williams, Matthew Needham and Patrick McDowell. Find out why they care about sustainability and how they apply it to their work, what they’re doing to combat fashion waste and redesign the whole system.

Podcast Ep. 69, ORSOLA DE CASTRO - QUEEN OF UPCYCLING

Podcast Ep. 69, ORSOLA DE CASTRO - QUEEN OF UPCYCLING

Revolution, baby

She is one of the warmest, most generous and knowledgable people working in sustainable fashion today. You probably know Orsola as the cofounder, with Carry Somers, of Fashion Revolution. But did you also know that she is the Queen Upcycling?

In the that 1990s, after crocheting around the holes in a much-loved old jumper that she couldn’t bear to part with although it was literally falling apart, Orsola founded the fashion label From Somewhere. Her designs used only discarded, unloved, unwanted materials and turned them into the opposite: treasured, loved, wanted, and highly covetable.

Podcast Ep. 68, LIVIA FIRTH, ECO AGE & THE GREEN CARPET

Podcast Ep. 68, LIVIA FIRTH, ECO AGE & THE GREEN CARPET

Watch out, unethical fashion! Your days are numbered

Livia Firth is the Creative Director of sustainability consultancy Eco-Age, and the founder of the Green Carpet Challenge and Green Carpet Fashion Awards. She is a UN Leader of Change, a founding member of Annie Lennox’s women’s advocacy group The Circle, and was a co-producer on Andrew Morgan’s ethical fashion documentary, The True Cost. Livia is also a warm and wonderful advocate for ethical and sustainable fashion, and an absolute treat to interview. We are so grateful to Livia for kicking off this, our brand sparkling new series 3 of the Wardrobe Crisis podcast.

Ep 67, TAMARA CINCIK, FASHION & POLITICS - BREXIT AND THE ENVIRONMENTAL AUDIT COMMITTEE

Ep 67, TAMARA CINCIK, FASHION & POLITICS - BREXIT AND THE ENVIRONMENTAL AUDIT COMMITTEE

From front row to front bench? Why not? It's time we stopped considering fashion as simply fluffy. The industry is a giant global employer with serious impacts on the environment, and yet it is not traditionally associated with being active in the political arena or central to government policy. Our guest this week, on the final Episode of Series 2, is Londoner Tamara Cincik, founder of the British policy organisation Fashion Roundtable, who is determined to change this.

Ep 66, TEATUM JONES ON POSITIVE FASHION, INCLUSIVITY & ACTIVISM

Ep 66, TEATUM JONES ON POSITIVE FASHION, INCLUSIVITY & ACTIVISM

Catherine Teatum and Rob Jones, are the London creative partners behind Teatum Jones - an inclusive, though-provoking label challenging fashion’s norms. What role can fashion play in empowering women and girls? How can we modernise fashion and make it way more inclusive? How do we smash the idea that you have to look and be a certain way to qualify as beautiful, stylish, in fashion? How come fashion ignores disability - and keeps on getting away with it? Why do designers have a responsibility in this area, and how can they maximise their positive impact?

Ep 65, RUCHIKA SACHDEVA ON INDIAN FASHION’S NEW GEN, WINNING THE WOOLMARK PRIZE

Ep 65, RUCHIKA SACHDEVA ON INDIAN FASHION’S NEW GEN, WINNING THE WOOLMARK PRIZE

Meet Indian designer Ruchika Sachdeva of Bodice Studio, the Delhi-based label that took out the 2017/18 International Woolmark Prize . She trained at the London College of Fashion and interned at Vivienne Westwood, before returning home, where she showed as a “Gen Next Designer” at Lakme Fashion Week in 2010. A year later, she launched Bodice Studio. Her idea? To make thoughtfully designed modern classics with integrity, and a respect for artisanal producers.

Ep 64, AFTER APARTHEID - MAIYET'S PAUL VAN ZYL, FROM HUMAN RIGHTS LAW TO FASHIO

Ep 64, AFTER APARTHEID - MAIYET'S PAUL VAN ZYL, FROM HUMAN RIGHTS LAW TO FASHIO

Let’s get ethical. Paul van Zyl is a human rights lawyer and ethical fashion entrepreneur. He grew up in South Africa during the apartheid era, and served as the Executive Secretary of South Africa’s post-apartheid Truth and Reconciliation Commission from 1995 to 1998.

In 2009 he founded Maiyet, a luxury fashion brand with a social impact purpose. The idea? “We incorporate ancient traditions in untraditional ways by partnering with artisans in developing economies and by sourcing material in ethical ways. We create limited exquisite product in limited editions. The hope is that by doing so we promote entrepreneurship, prosperity, and dignity in places that need it most.”

Ep 63, FIGHTING FASHION WASTE - REDRESS'S CHRISTINA DEAN

Ep 63, FIGHTING FASHION WASTE - REDRESS'S CHRISTINA DEAN

How about we stop throwing clothes away?

Stats vary. Does the average woman discard a piece of clothing 4 or 7 times before she gets rid of it? Depends who you listen to, but it’s never good. Everyone agrees that clothing production is rising while usability is declining.

According to the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, the average number of times a garment is worn before it ceases to be used has decreased by 36% compared to 15 years ago. In the US clothes are only worn for around a quarter of the global average. The same pattern is emerging in China, where clothing utilisation has decreased by 70% over the last 15 years.

Despite this, clothing production has about doubled during this time. We now produce around 100 billion garments a year, and of this total fibre input that is used for clothing, 87% ends up landfilled or incinerated.